Cutting Words – Award Winning Hairdresser Jamie Stevens Talks to The MALESTROM
Hair, we all have it (some more than others), but it’s an integral part of all our lives and a serious business. We at MALESTROM HQ had some burning questions about our barnet’s but who to ask? We needed someone with serious credentials, someone who’s perhaps won British Hairdresser of the Year four times! Someone whose clients have included Kylie, Eva Herzigova and Elle Macpherson. In fact if we listed all of this guys accomplishments we’d be here all day. The man in question is Jamie Stevens, a true innovator in the world of hair. He gave The MALESTROM some of his time to talk about the freshest cuts and how to deal with common problems surrounding men’s locks, so they can be hair today and gone tomorrow.
The MALESTROM: What styles are in this Summer?
Jamie Stevens: Longer textured hair is definitely here with guys really experimenting, expect to see much more colouring and perming being tried. For the shorter hair, aggressive military inspired cuts are on the out and expect to see softer, slightly longer styles here that will offer much more versatility and opportunity for a day and night-time look.
TM: How can blokes cover up their thinning locks?
JS: I would definitely recommend my disguise range from MR. Jamie Stevens. It has many products that will help cover up thinning locks and with a colour that should suit your hair too. You can choose between either the fibres or the disguise spray as to which one works best for you. Some people even like to use both! They are super simple to use but the results are often mind blowing. You can see videos of how to apply these products in quick and simple ways on the website where I demonstrate it.
TM: What are the recommended styles for them?
JS: It really does vary on the individual, but the general rule is if you take it shorter it looks thicker. It’s also important to have the right balance in your haircut, for e.g. if you are thinning on the top then you should keep the back and the sides shorter. This takes the emphasis off the top being thin.
TM: Is there a product which can help?
JS:We have a fantastic product MR. Thickening Treatment which helps reduce the rate of hair loss. It’s also so important to use a good shampoo and conditioner, our MR. range contains the unique System-PPXTM complex especially for this as it helps keep hair thicker and stronger for longer
TM: Is there anything that can be done to cover up a receding hairline?
JS:Yes 100% The worst thing you can do is try to hide it with say, a modern day comb over! It really does draw attention to it and like I said it is important about the haircut and what products you use, but also depends on the individual and how far they are receding. Products to avoid also with thinning hair are wet look products such as gel as not only do they separate the hair and expose the scalp they also make the scalp that’s on show look shiny which draws attention to it!
TM: Should men grow grey gracefully or get some colour?
JS:I think this depends on the person and their style but I think if men of a certain age colour their hair it should be done extremely naturally. It’s not attractive to look like you are obviously trying to cover something up. It’s nice to see confidence in men and I think grey hair on men is super cool and definitely something to embrace!
TM: What products should we use?
JS: I think with men we are still trying to move away from the stereotypical gel and wax as the only availability. For men a few key styling products will work wonders for your look so make sure you have a good base like a MR. Sea Salt Spray as this gives great texture and hold when dried in. Another must have is the MR. Paste as this is such a versatile product that can give so many different looks. One of my favourites is the MR. Fix Spray, not enough men understand the importance of holding their hair in place without putting far too much product in, this lightweight firm hold spray keeps it in place without it looking to overdone.
TM: Which styles fit best with different face shapes? – heart, square, oval, etc.
JS: I tend to find with men’s hair the cut should be tailored to the individual. To base every decision on face shape will not necessarily give the best results, however my go to shape and rule of thumb with men’s hair is to add more structure, I move the shape to a more square finish as this draws the eyes up and gives a more masculine strong shape, I feel going to rounded with the cut can be very unflattering
TM: What’s the biggest hair mistake you see with men?
JS: For me the biggest mistake I see working within men’s hair dressing is unfortunately the impact on self-confidence. When guys start thinning or receding they tend to grow out whatever hair they have thinking this gives the appearance of thicker hair, or trying to cover the areas they’re conscious of. In my opinion, this just makes it worse as it makes the thinning areas more exposed and therefore amplifies the difference. This was one of the reasons I felt my products were needed as you can still have a cool short haircut that will really strengthen your look and fill in the gaps with MR. products.
TM: Do you often find you have to politely suggest a different style to men, that’ll suit their face better?
JS: I often have to find polite ways to guide people, but fortunately I have been able to grow a very loyal and trusting clientele through providing this advice. Unfortunately many men like the idea of a certain look more than the actual process of looking after it. It’s therefore necessary to take them through the routine they’ll have to follow to maintain that look and make sure they know each process. I feel there are many ways to gain trust with your clients by guiding them in the right way, being outright rude is never good, but honesty is always rewarded with your clients when they see you have their best interests at heart.
TM: What are the common haircare mistakes men make?
JS: The most common one is men not using conditioner in their morning routine, this is so important as it nourishes the hair and gets it ready for better styling. This for me is a must and I make sure all my clients understand this.
Another key one is men who take a scoop of styling product and put it solely through the front section of their hair, then add a second helping through the back and sides. This just makes the hair look greasy and unkempt. It’s best to take a finger nail size of product, rub it through your palms, backs of your hands and between your fingers as this helps to distribute it evenly throughout the hair.
TM: Is washing your hair with cold water beneficial, or is that a myth?
JS: It’s not a myth cold water does close the cuticles of the hair follicles which makes the hair shinier!
TM: What are the best products for: thick hair, fine hair, curly/wavy hair, long hair?
JS: Thick hair – Needs something with more hold such as a paste or a clay depending on the look. Thick hair could also work with gel or wax if you are going for that sleek look.
Fine hair – Avoid wet or greasy products such as a wax or gel, better to use a paste! Stick with products from the disguise range if need be. But styling wise a salt spray is amazing as it gives the hair more grit, makes it look and feel thicker. Don’t forget a hairspray such as my Style Spray, great for locking in the style.
Curly and wavy hair – Use of the salt spray will give it more of a beachy texture, but also adds control. Using the conditioner is key for everyone but especially this hair type! A paste and wax are also great products to scrunch in and add definition.